Day 3 | Crossing the Yangtze
September 7th 2011
From 184km – 291km
It’s raining when we set off on day 3. We have breakfast at a little stall in front of the chemist and pack some take away baozi. At first we are indecisive on which road to take but with the rainy circumstances we punch forward and keep peddling along the big noisy road. So far our spontaneous navigation has not failed us.
We have a short break at a shop, where laoban helpfully searches on googlemaps and chooses the best route to cross the river. An extremely tall mans pulls over and invites us for lunch at his home; however we aren't hungry and want to get more miles under our belt before we munch on our yummy packed baozi. We hop back onto the banks of the Yangtze and casually cycle past cows, goats and birds. Our lunch is unpacked on the banks of the Yangtze under a self-made canopy consisting of our two bikes and a bed sheet.
After lunch and a little nap we pursue the significant event of crossing the Yangtze River. By accident we meander down a road that leads us right to the end of the queue of a ferry crossing, which leaves in 15 minutes. The other passengers - like everyone we meet - seem very keen to figure out the best route to get to Changsha, one gentleman helpfully suggests that we could take a plane and be there in only a few hours. We board the ferry with our friendly neighbours, one of which is a crazy lady holding two pocket size turtles in each hand. The momentous ride across the Yangtze on a floating rotating dance floor boat is soon crossed.
On the south side of the river the roads are steep, bumpy and dusty, but the mountain vista keeps us cheery. We pass a one-van band and village people walking their buffalo. The town we plan to stay in doesn’t have a hotel so we race to the next city before the night catches us like a great dark thing. Just in time we find a hotel in the city centre, which appears to consist of 50% concrete and 50% neon lights. A late night meal and an evening stroll leaves us ready for bed.
